![]() Using the roof of a home is most commonly used but rain can be harvested from other structures. People often harvest rainwater to help conserve water, to be more environmentally friendly, or to supply the water needed for living. Rainwater harvesting has been increasing in its popularity as well as how easy it is to implement. Rainwater harvesting is the practice of collecting regular amounts of rainfall to supplement a water source or to fully provide a property’s water needs. This joint can also be made more waterproof with the addition of a high-quality siliconized caulk.Interested in rainwater harvesting? Want to know more about the practice and how to best capture the rain that falls on your roof? In this Rain Tanks Series post, we will look into how to capture rainwater on your roof, what is needed, recommended, and some common, important points.Cut a triangular section from the top of the strip miter (as shown) with snips, and then fold down the two flaps around the top edge of the gutter.Secure it with eight pop rivets or sheet-metal screws. Wrap the aluminum strip tight around the underside of the gutter.Cover the joint between two lengths of gutter at each corner with a strip miter - a 3-inch-wide strip of aluminum.Tip: Aluminum gutters and brackets can be spray-painted to match - or contrast with - the house trim. Secure the gutter to the bracket with a 1-inch-long #8-32 stainless steel machine screw and flanged nut.Through the screw-mounting hole in each bracket, drill a 3/16-inch-diameter hole in the front edge of the gutter.Rotate the gutter upward until its back edge slips into the hooks at the top of the back of the brackets (as shown).Lay the gutter into the brackets that you’ve lag-screwed to the fascia.To ensure a watertight joint, seal the rivets and the end-cap seam on the inside of the gutter with a high-quality siliconized caulk.Remove the temporary screw and replace it with a rivet.To do this, hold the end cap in place temporarily with a single sheet-metal screw, then drill a 1/8-inch-diameter hole and install one pop rivet (above).(If the gutter doesn’t turn a corner, fasten an end cap to each end.) At the square-cut end of the gutter, attach a spherical end cap with aluminum pop rivets. ![]() Tip: Locate screws or rivets in the sides of the gutter, never in the bottom. If the run requires two sections of gutter, overlap them by 8 inches and use a 3/8-inch-long, self-tapping, stainless steel screws or pop rivets, in two rows of four each, to join them.If the gutter continues around a corner, cut the appropriate angle (typically 45 degrees) on that end.Cut gutter section to length with hacksaw and aviation snips, or with a 12-inch power miter saw fitted with a carbide-tipped finish blade (as shown).Tip: Check the fascia for rot - and make repairs if necessary - before installing the gutters. Snap a chalk line between the two points (as shown).At the other end of the fascia (or at the downspout location if there’s one in the middle of the run), mark the low end of the gutter run, keeping in mind that the slope should be approximately ½ inch for every 10 feet of run. ![]()
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